Wednesday, April 17, 2013
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
Fix for a warped thermostat housing.
Pretty much every thermostat housing on the planet be it new or used will be warped no if's and's or but's about it! Being a recovering Mopar guy you discover this the first time you get your hands on a new chrome Mopar Performance chrome housing, instal it and then find that your clean aluminum intake has coolant stains all over it. The best way to fix this problem is to get some sticky back sand paper (180 grit in my case).
Find and flat smooth surface, stick the paper on it and go to town in an X pattern until the bottom is smooth and flat. It's pretty self explanatory and you should do this on any new chrome housing to knock the chrome off the gasket surface so the gasket and sealer has something to grip onto.
This is the stock housing off a 62 394 Oldsmobile....
Start out with a few passes on the sand paper to see how bad it is. This one wasn't too bad.
Try to keep even pressure while sanding and keep checking to see the progress. Eventually it will sand away all the imperfections leaving a clean smooth surface. This took s few pieces of the sticky back 180 paper and there are still a few pits in it but I got bored and it will seal up fine with the new gasket and some gasket sealer.
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Cleaning parts.
I cleaned up the intake, fan and pulley with a wire wheel on a drill and sandblasted them a little bit. I also used some Eastwood fast etch rust killer in a spray bottle. When it is dry it will leave a coating that you can primer and paint over with no problems.
Another good rust killer is Evaporust from Harbor Freight. It is about $20 a gallon.
Another good rust killer is Evaporust from Harbor Freight. It is about $20 a gallon.
Saturday, April 6, 2013
More done lastnite. Dash and freeze plugs.
Started out working on the dash. Got some bondo on over the duraglass and did some sanding with 180 grit.
After that I moved on to installing the freeze plugs in the 394 Olds...
The first thing i do is clean up the surface with some sand paper to get any rust or other crap off. In this case I just used some scrap 180 grit that I was using on the dash.
Next I scuff up the sides of the freeze plugs. I do this because I use a sealer on them before I install them. This acts like a lube to help them go in and will help make water tight seal. It is a good idea to scuff up the gasket side of any engine part like chrome valve covers, chrome thermostat housing, chrome timing cover or chrome oil pan.
The idea is that the sand marks will help give the sealer or gasket maker a rough surface to grab onto otherwise it will just be more prone to leaking.
You can see in the pic the difference between the sanded (inner 2 plugs) and the non sanded surfaces (outer 2 plugs). I had to use 2 brass plugs because the parts store only had 4 steel and 2 brass plugs left and a 394 Olds requires 6 plugs in the block.
Needed tools for installing new freeze plugs..
- One B.F.H. (big fucking hammer) aka....a Ford tool.
- One socket or other round driver that will fit inside the freeze plug and that is small enough that it wont get stuck. You just want it big enough to cover at least 80-90% of the plug to help drive it in the hole. Too small of a driver/socket and it will just put all the force from the hammer into the center of the plug ad that can cause the plug to turn into a cone shape distorting the plug and causing it to not seal properly.
After scuffing both surfaces, making sure there is no dirt or other crap on them, use your finger and smear some sealer (in this case just black high temp RTV sealer that every good gearhead should have on hand)onto both mating surfaces and set the plug in place.
Remember freeze plugs go dish side in.
Take your socket/driver and place it in the center of the plug and hen tap it with the hammer a few time to get the feel of what you are doing. You need to hit it straight on, if you hit it at an angle the plug could bend and then you will have to drive back to the parts store and get a new one (don't try to straighten it yourself, it isn't worth it).
Once you get the feel for it give it a few good whacks and start driving the plug into the block. If your socket/driver is smaller that the inside diameter of the plug then you may have to move around while you hit it to get the plug to go in straight.
Don't hit the plug too hard or you could knock it into the block. There will be a raised ridge around the hole, that is the level you want the plug at. Tap it in with the socket until the edge of the plug is about 1/16 of an inch (about the thickness of a dime) from the edge of the ridge.
At this point you can loose the socket/driver and just use the hammer to LIGHTLY tap the plug the rest of the way until it is even with the block. DO NOT hit it super fucking hard! Your block is made of cast iron (unless you are working on an aluminum block) and it won't take much to crack it or knock a chunk out with a hammer if you wail on it hard enough.
Done and ready for the outside of the block to be cleaned...
The first thing i do is clean up the surface with some sand paper to get any rust or other crap off. In this case I just used some scrap 180 grit that I was using on the dash.
Next I scuff up the sides of the freeze plugs. I do this because I use a sealer on them before I install them. This acts like a lube to help them go in and will help make water tight seal. It is a good idea to scuff up the gasket side of any engine part like chrome valve covers, chrome thermostat housing, chrome timing cover or chrome oil pan.
The idea is that the sand marks will help give the sealer or gasket maker a rough surface to grab onto otherwise it will just be more prone to leaking.
You can see in the pic the difference between the sanded (inner 2 plugs) and the non sanded surfaces (outer 2 plugs). I had to use 2 brass plugs because the parts store only had 4 steel and 2 brass plugs left and a 394 Olds requires 6 plugs in the block.
Needed tools for installing new freeze plugs..
- One B.F.H. (big fucking hammer) aka....a Ford tool.
- One socket or other round driver that will fit inside the freeze plug and that is small enough that it wont get stuck. You just want it big enough to cover at least 80-90% of the plug to help drive it in the hole. Too small of a driver/socket and it will just put all the force from the hammer into the center of the plug ad that can cause the plug to turn into a cone shape distorting the plug and causing it to not seal properly.
After scuffing both surfaces, making sure there is no dirt or other crap on them, use your finger and smear some sealer (in this case just black high temp RTV sealer that every good gearhead should have on hand)onto both mating surfaces and set the plug in place.
Remember freeze plugs go dish side in.
Take your socket/driver and place it in the center of the plug and hen tap it with the hammer a few time to get the feel of what you are doing. You need to hit it straight on, if you hit it at an angle the plug could bend and then you will have to drive back to the parts store and get a new one (don't try to straighten it yourself, it isn't worth it).
Once you get the feel for it give it a few good whacks and start driving the plug into the block. If your socket/driver is smaller that the inside diameter of the plug then you may have to move around while you hit it to get the plug to go in straight.
Don't hit the plug too hard or you could knock it into the block. There will be a raised ridge around the hole, that is the level you want the plug at. Tap it in with the socket until the edge of the plug is about 1/16 of an inch (about the thickness of a dime) from the edge of the ridge.
At this point you can loose the socket/driver and just use the hammer to LIGHTLY tap the plug the rest of the way until it is even with the block. DO NOT hit it super fucking hard! Your block is made of cast iron (unless you are working on an aluminum block) and it won't take much to crack it or knock a chunk out with a hammer if you wail on it hard enough.
Done and ready for the outside of the block to be cleaned...
All clean and ready for primer/paint.
Wednesday, April 3, 2013
Daryls 48....
So lastnite the plan was to pull the dash and start welding up all the unused holes in his firewall. We pulled the dash and saw just how bad it was under all the fiberglass the last owner used. It really comes down to how much your time is worth, the cost of materials and the fact that his back is all jacked up so he can't really do alot of moving and bending right now so he is ordering a new firewall for it this week and we will just drill out the spot welds and pop in a new, clean and smooth firewall and be done with it!
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